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Once you bring your new puppy home, and regardless of whether she lives indoors or out, family pet or gun dog, you want to make sure
she develops into a well-adjusted companion. The importance of this process cannot be overstated. Socialization during puppyhood is
critical to your dog’s development. What you do (and do not do) during puppyhood affects your dog’s behavior forever.
Socialization of your puppy actually begins while it is still with its litter mates. But, the essential elements are the owner's
responsibility. The groundwork for developing your dog’s behavior is done within the first three months its life. After 12 weeks, all
you’re actually doing is refining what the pup has already learned. The longer you wait to begin, the more difficult and time-
consuming the process will prove.
Make sure everything you introduce your puppy to is pleasant and non-threatening. A first experience with something painful and
frightening defeats your purpose and serves as a setback. It’s always better to go too slow and assure your puppy is not frightened
or injured than to rush and force them into new things.
If your gun dog is also a family pet, and will live indoors, socializing her can be fairly easy. Having young children doesn’t hurt, as
puppies and kids go together. Always begin by exposing your puppy to as many people -- both young and old -- as possible. Let kids
handle and pet the puppies. (TIP: If you have young children, I suggest not letting them pick up the puppy, as a squirming puppy can
be a handful for a young child, and the puppy can easily be injured if dropped.) Other family pets come after people. This step
requires close supervision, especially if there are other dogs involved. Remember, dogs are pack animals, and in their world everyone
in the pack, human or canine, has an assigned place. I normally sit on the floor holding the puppy and let the older dogs come by at
their convenience to sniff the newcomer. I never force the issue. After a few rounds of sniffing, I’ll let the puppy walk around,
carefully watching my older dogs to make sure they don’t turn the puppy into a hot lunch. Only after I am thoroughly convinced that
my older dogs have accepted the newcomer do I ever let them alone. Rule of thumb: slower is better. That’s not to say a nip or two
won’t happen. If those puppy teeth chewed on your ears a while, and you’d bite back too!
The next step in the process involves introducing pup to the world outside the house and yard. I begin by taking the puppy for a
short ride around the block. As she becomes accustomed to riding, I lengthen the trips. While some may choose other methods, I find
that holding my puppy on my lap reduces her nervousness and anxiety. (TIP: On the first several rides, go before giving pup food or
water, or you many end up with more than a puppy in your lap.) Once you’ve determined that riding is not a problem, transition her to
a crate in the vehicle. Once again, start with short rides, gradually increasing length over time.
When the puppy is in the house, I run vacuum cleaners, TVs, fans, etc. However, be cautious when introducing loud noises, especially
if the plan is to turn your puppy into a gun dog. Introducing shooting sounds or anything equally as loud should be done very
carefully. Introducing your puppy to gun fire will be addressed in another training tip.
Feeding your puppy is also a time for socialization. If you have ever been around a dog that tries to eat your hand as you give it a
treat, it’s probably because the owner didn’t realize that feeding a puppy can greatly impact how it reacts as and older dog. When
feeding my new pup, I always sit next to the bowl while she is eating. I’ll gently pet the puppy as she’s eating. I’ll even place my
fingers in the food bowl. If your puppy thinks it’s normal to have people touch her and her food while eating, the possibility of a
food-related bite in the future is greatly diminished. (TIP: I also like to have her eat from my hand. A dog will soon accept this as
normal. The payoff is later, when she's grown and has a full set of teeth ... offering a treat won’t lead to a trip to the emergency
room to have the tips of your fingers reattached.)
Now is also the time to introduce a collar and leash. I usually start with a light-weight collar. Expect pup to do everything possible
to get it off. (TIP: The collar is properly fitted if you can place two fingers under the collar once you have it fastened around your
puppy’s neck.) After a few days of wearing the collar, I attach the leash, letting the puppy drag it around with no resistance. After
a few days I pick up the leash and start walking the puppy. You want the puppy to think wearing a collar and being on a leash is part
of normal life.
Always avoid experiences that might be harmful, painful or excessively frightening. No sense risking the introduction of a lifelong
phobia! Don’t do too much at one time, as young puppies tire easily and need plenty of rest. Brief exposure is best in the long run.
Lastly, DO NOT WAIT! Seize every opportunity to introduce new and exciting things to your puppy. Time passes by much too
quickly, and time not devoted to socializing your puppy at this early age can literally come back to bite you later. Remember, make it
fun!
the following:
Taylorsville, GA
info@Quailpointkennels.com
Chris Kahlan 770-378-2407
Greg Bayer 678-773-5667