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Heel is an obedience command that should be taught to make your puppy more manageable in the field, or during simple walks around
the neighborhood. When given this command, your puppy should walk alongside of you and stop when you stop. He should never leave
your side until given a release command. The command may be taught with the pup on either your left of right side. Because I’m
right-handed and carry my shotgun on my right, my dog heels on my left. This way, should I need to quickly mount my shotgun for an
unexpected flush, I won’t have to worry about my dog getting in the way.
TIP: Because this command requires some discipline and restraint, not to mention patience and persistence, some people wait until
the dog is 8-12 months old to teach "heel." Cater your training to the mental toughness of your dog ... that is, wait until "soft" dogs
mature a bit.
When teaching this command, I like to use either a 36- or 48-inch lead, rather than a retractable leash. Start by placing the lead on
your pup, and bringing him to either your left or right side, with his nose even with your knee. Give the “heel” command and begin
walking at a brisk pace. Initially, keep the lead taut. This keeps your pup close to you, and teaches him to keep his head up when
heeling. If your pup begins to loose interest, try slapping your hand against your leg. The sudden noise will startle him a bit, and
help him refocus. Don’t be upset if he tugs at the lead and tries to walk in front of you. This is natural. Remember, this may be the
first time he has been restrained, and he's not accustomed to that sensation. Remember, limit the training session to 10 or 15
minutes. Repeat the session for the next couple of days. After five or six days, put your puppy on the lead, bring him to your side,
say the command, and begin walking with the lead taut. As soon as pup begins walking, let the lead relax. In all likelihood, your puppy
will attempt to bolt ahead of you. Simply give the lead a jerk to return him to your side, say “heel,” and continue walking. TIP: When
teaching “heel,” a quick jerk of the lead is more effective than a steady pull to return pup to your side. First it gets the dog's
attention and, second, it immediately halts improper behavior. A steady pull will only be met with an equal response in the opposite
direction. Another trick to keep you puppy from bolting in front of you is to use either a rolled up newspaper or long stick. With
the puppy walking next to you, lead taut, relax the lead and as he starts to bolt ahead of you, tap the puppy on the nose and say
“heel.” Continue this phase of training until your puppy stays at your side and no longer pulls on the lead. From time to time, your
puppy may decide to lag behind. Correct this behavior the same way you correct bolting ahead, with a quick jerk on the lead to bring
him to the proper position on your side.
Once you’re certain pup understands what is expected when he hears “heel,” you can move to the next step, which is keeping him at
heel when you change directions. Put the puppy on the lead, give the heel command, and begin walking. The lead should be relaxed.
Reverse direction and give the heel command. If your puppy does not follow, jerk the lead and pull him to your side. Continue this
routine until your puppy turns with you and the lead remains relaxed. The intent of this portion of the training is to get your puppy
to pay attention to the movement of your body and respond accordingly. After several training sessions your puppy will pick up the
expected behavior.
The next phase of training is a personal preference of mine. I like my dog to “sit” from the heeling position when we both come to a
stop. If you decide to teach your puppy to sit, all you needed to do is give the “sit” command each and every time you stop walking
with your pup at the heel. After your puppy sits, wait several seconds, give the release command, say “heel” and then start walking.
If the puppy hesitates, a quick jerk on the leash as a reminder should do the trick. TIP: This portion of the training may either be
incorporated when you first start teaching “heel,” or added after your puppy has master the task. My personal preference is to
incorporate throughout the training, so it’s learned as part of the “heel” command. If you decide to add “sit,” it will also be
necessary to add a “release” command. I use the one taught for releasing my dog from the “stay” position. I tap the pup on the head
and say “OK.” Any release command will work, just remember to be consistent.
Now for the final test ... heeling without the lead. Start with your pup on the lead, with him heeling. Stop and remove the lead. Say
“heel” and see if he executes the command without being prompted. If he hesitates, reconnect the lead and resume the training
session. Continue the sessions until the puppy responds without being on the lead. TIP: For this portion of training, consider
starting in a confined area (garage and basement work great). Keep distractions to a minimum. Once you’re confident that your pup
heels, on command, without the lead, move the training outdoors. At first, try to keep distractions to a minimum ... you want to keep
your pup focused on the task at hand. Distractions can be added as you become confident that your pup knows what is expected when
told to “heel.”
Finally, if you are comfortable using them, and pinch collar or e-collar are excellent tools for teaching "heel."
Remember, as I previously stated, this command requires a little more discipline and restraint, and may be best taught when your
puppy is a little older, depending on his/her mental toughness. Be patient and your time and effort will be rewarded.
following:
Taylorsville, GA
info@Quailpointkennels.com
Chris Kahlan 770-378-2407
Greg Bayer 678-773-5667